| Reps (Repetitions) |
A single instance of a movement |
One hang on the fingerboard |
| Sets |
A group of repetitions |
8 reps of fingerboard max hangs = 1 set |
| Work Time |
Duration spent performing the movement during each rep. If no rest time indicated, rest should be part of the work time |
10 seconds per hang for max hangs |
| Inter-Rep Rest |
Time rested between repetitions |
Commonly 4-6 minutes between hangs for max hangs |
| Inter-Set Rest |
Break between sets |
Not applicable for single-set max hangs |
| Rate of Fatigue (ROF) |
Rate of Fatigue refers to how tired you feel from the physical effort during the session. |
After climbing 15 intense problems, your arms feel pumped but you can still push for more—that’s around a 7/10 ROF. (Subjective) |
| Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) |
RPE is a subjective scale used to measure the intensity of physical effort during an activity. Typically rated from 1 to 10, it reflects how hard a person feels they are working based on factors like heart rate, muscle fatigue, and overall exertion. |
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| • 1-3 RPE: Light activity, like walking at an easy pace. |
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| • 4-6 RPE: Moderate effort where you can maintain the activity for a while, but it requires focus. |
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| • 7-9 RPE: Intense work where you’re nearing your limits and speaking becomes difficult. |
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| • 10 RPE: Maximum effort—your absolute limit. |
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| **** |
If you’re working on a boulder problem at 80% intensity, aiming for an 8/10 RPE, you should feel like the climb is challenging but still doable with effort. Success might require a few attempts, and you’ll need good rest between tries to maintain that level of intensity. |
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