Below are the strength & conditioning exercises I’ll be focusing on each week during this strength phase leading up to my outdoor trip. Be sure to allow enough rest between this session and your climbing session to recover fully and train at the desired intensity 💪. For me, this typically means scheduling my strength session say during lunch in the afternoon, then climbing later at night. OR climbing and board session first, then doing the strength exercises after. You can refer to this very brief weekly timeline on how I would pair the sessions together with the board sessions and finger protocols.

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday
Strength Session Rest Strength Session Rest Rest Rest Rest
Pinch Holds Rest 20mm Weighted Hangs Rest Rest Rest Rest
Board Mileage Rest Board Volume Rest Rest Open Climbing Rest
Conditioning Conditioning Conditioning

Exercises TL;DR

  1. Strength Exercises
    1. Weighted Pull-Ups (Wide)
      • 3 Sets x 10 Reps x 2m rest
    2. Inclined Chest Press (Dumbbell)
      • 3 Sets x 10 Reps x 2m rest
    3. Flexor Dumbbell Curls
      • 3 Sets x 10 Reps x 2m rest
    4. Extensor Dumbbell Curls
      • 3 Sets x 10 Reps x 2m rest
  2. Conditioning Exercises
    1. 1-Arm Shoulder Shrugs
      • 3 Sets x 6 Reps x 1m rest
    2. Shoulder Rotations (Seated)
      • 3 Sets x 15 Reps x 1m rest

If unsure, see below for more details on each exercise!

Weekly Schedule.png

Exercise 1: Weighted Pull-Ups (Wide)

✋ Session Focus

This exercise is performed on a pull-up bar with your hands placed 1.5 to 2 times shoulder-width apart. Adjust the weight by adding or removing resistance to match the target intensity. Keep your shoulders engaged at the bottom of the movement and use an overhand grip. 🚫 Avoid using your lower body to create momentum (no kipping). Each rep should finish with your chin above the bar to train the full pulling range.

image 5.png

🔥 Warm-Up Recommendations

This workout does not include warm-up sets, so you’ll need to complete both a general warm-up (e.g., light cardio or dynamic stretches) and a specific warm-up for pull-ups. For the specific warm-up, start with lighter resistance and gradually build up to your working intensity. 🩸

🚨 Failure Rate

The goal is to avoid failure during this session. If you experience form breakdown or cannot complete a rep, reduce the weight or resistance to maintain good technique.

🧮 Repetition Maximum (RM)

The RM is the maximum load you can handle for a specific number of reps while maintaining proper form. 💡 Use past sessions or warm-ups to estimate the right resistance. For this workout, you should always leave 2 reps in the tank at the end of each set, meaning your RM should be 2 reps higher than your working reps.

📈 Progression

Over 4 weeks, I do not expect to increase the weight much, and maintain my 2RM instead. Over a longer period like say 12 weeks is where I would want to add in progression. How you can structure this is by increasing the weight slightly and reducing the reps. It may look sth like this below:

Week Sets Repetitions Added Weight Set Rest Time Repetition Maximum
1 - 4 3 10 10 KG 2 min 2RM
4 - 8 3 8 12 KG 2 min 2RM
8 - 12 3 10 12 KG 2 min 2RM

⏱ Workout Companion & Progress Tracker

I personally use Lattice Training’s app, however, you can use the ‘Crimpd’ app which is free and has a huge range of workouts that you can use to help you track the progress. Particularly, the most apt one for this program will be: Conditioning > Upper Body > Weighted Pull Ups - 35%

You can download the app here: Google Play 🌐 | Apple App Store 🍎

🏋️Alternative Exercise (If no weighted pull-ups/bar)

If you do not have access to a pull up bar or weight belt to do weighted pull-ups, or you have not reached the strength level to do pull ups, here are some alternatives you can consider:

  1. Lat Pulldown
    1. Same sets and reps as above, ensuring to keep form steady, and range of motion at a maximum.
  2. Pull-Up Negatives
    1. Jump up to full lock-off and slowly release down as slow as possible for each rep.

If you are unsure of how to perform these exercises, do youtube how to perform them appropriately!

img_v3_02he_04bb8218-cb17-4ac8-b997-f35f091f9f6h.png