Below are the two primary training sessions I’ll focus on each week during this strength phase leading up to my outdoor trip. Be sure to allow enough rest between these sessions to recover fully and train at the desired intensity 💪. For me, this typically means scheduling Session 1 on Monday, taking a rest day on Tuesday 💤, and following up with Session 2 on Wednesday. Later in the week, I’ll usually have a more relaxed open climbing session on Friday or Saturday 🧗♂️. You can refer to this very brief weekly timeline on how I would structure the program. However, the general rule of thumb is not to have back to back training days and ensuring you get good rest between them. So another timeline could look something like: Tue - board mileage, Wed - Rest, Thu - Board Volume, Fri/Sat - Rest, Sun - Open Climbing, Mon - Rest.
| Monday | Tuesday | Wednesday | Thursday | Friday | Saturday | Sunday |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Board Mileage | Rest | Board Volume | Rest | Rest | Open Climbing | Rest |
This session emphasizes high-volume bouldering and is best done on a steep board or bouldering wall 🧱. The goal is to complete 20 problems that challenge you at the appropriate RPE 🔥. The entire session should take about an hour ⏱, giving you roughly 3 minutes per problem. Aim to be precise and try to send each boulder on your first attempt ✅. If you complete a problem quickly, use the remaining time in the 3 minutes to rest 🧘. While the target is to flash each climb, a second attempt is allowed if needed ➡️. This method has proven highly effective for elite competition climbers 🌟, with success largely dependent on how much effort you put in and how consistently you train 💪.
Begin with a climbing-specific warm-up lasting at least 30 minutes 🕒. Gradually increase intensity until you're at the required level for this session 💥. This could involve warming up on easier boulders below your target intensity 🎯 but ensure you don’t get overly pumped or tired 😅.
Expect a moderate to high likelihood of falling 😬. To maximize benefits, select climbs that push your limits and challenge you 🚀, even if it means not completing every problem.
ROF/RPE: Around 8 out of 10. Rate of Fatigue reflects how tired you feel from the effort during the session. Aim for a moderate to high level of fatigue 💦—enough to push yourself but not completely exhaust you 🧗♂️.
| Sets | Repetitions (Routes/Boulders) | Rep Work Time (mins) | Intensity |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 20 | 3:00 | 8/10 RPE |
⏱ Workout Companion & Progress Tracker
I personally use Lattice Training’s app, however, you can use the ‘Crimpd’ app which is free and has a huge range of workouts that you can use to help you track the progress. Particularly, the most apt one for this programme will be: Strength & Power > Bouldering > Volume Bouldering
You can download the app here: Google Play 🌐 | Apple App Store 🍎
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This session is designed to enhance strength, power, and endurance 💪. Use a board that suits your skill level and focus on attempting a variety of challenging boulder problems 🧱. These can include familiar climbs or ones that are new to you, as long as they fit the session's difficulty. Ideally, have a pre-selected list of problems that you can complete within a few attempts. Limit yourself to 1-3 tries per climb to ensure you achieve the right climbing volume ✅. If a problem isn’t completed within three attempts, move on ➡️.